Skinboosters: What do they really do? Evidence and limitations

In short: Skinboosters are injections that don't plump, but improve skin quality - moisture, elasticity, a finer complexion. There are two families: Hyaluronic acid-based skinboosters (focus on moisture) and polynucleotide-based (focus on regeneration). Studies have shown measurable improvements in moisture and mechanical skin properties. The limitations are also clear: they do not provide volume, do not fill deep wrinkles, and do not work overnight.

"Skinbooster" has become a buzzword – and as with any trend, a sober look is worthwhile. What's behind it, what's proven, and where does the effect stop? We'll go through it honestly.

What a skinbooster actually is

A skin booster is a treatment in which an active ingredient is introduced into the skin over a broad area and finely, to improve it from the inside. The purpose is skin quality, not shape. This fundamentally differentiates it from a filler.

A filler uses cross-linked hyaluronic acid to create volume or shape contours. A skinbooster does not do this. It doesn't plump up, it doesn't alter facial features. It works on the skin's texture itself — on moisture, density, and surface. We delve deeper into the difference in the article. Hyaluronic acid: cross-linked vs. non-cross-linked.

The two families of skinboosters

This is where the field splits, and that's rarely explained:

Hyaluronic acid-based skin boosters using non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid. Its principle is moisture: the skin appears plumper, smoother, fresher. Some preparations also combine vitamins and amino acids to provide the skin with broader nourishment.

Polynucleotide-based skin boosters go a different way. Instead of primarily binding water, they stimulate the skin's own repair cells to produce more collagen and elastin. The result builds up more slowly but aims for genuine regeneration. You can read exactly what polynucleotides are in What are polynucleotides?.

Both families are skin boosters – and yet they do different things. Which one makes sense depends on whether your skin primarily needs moisture or primarily needs renewal.

What the studies show

The data situation is decent for such a young field, but it is nuanced.

Controlled studies on non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid skin boosters showed measurable improvements in skin hydration, fine wrinkles, and the mechanical properties of the skin. For polynucleotides, comparative studies showed an advantage in parameters such as skin roughness and pore size, with a good safety profile.

Context is important: Most studies are small, and direct head-to-head comparisons are rare. To put it properly: In the majority of cases studied, skin quality parameters improved — not "in all" and not "guaranteed".

What Skinboosters CANNOT do

This brings us to the honest part, which advertising likes to leave out:

• You give no volume. Hollowed cheeks or a deep tear trough are not a topic for Skinboosters.
• You fill no deep wrinkles. A pronounced static crease requires a different tool.
• You appear Not immediately and not as a one-off. The effect builds up over a short series and needs to be refreshed.
• They do not replace good skincare or sun protection.

A skin booster improves skin quality. Anyone expecting contour changes will be disappointed – not because the product is bad, but because it's not designed for that purpose.

Who might benefit from a skin booster?

It's useful if your skin appears pale, dry, or thin, if fine lines and texture bother you, or if you want to build up skin quality before visible signs appear. This is precisely the core of a pre-aging approach: to strengthen the skin, rather than trying to cover it up later.

What we use in the clinic

At the alestetics® clinic in Zurich, we use two skin boosters covering both families: NCTF® for hydration and micronutrients, and PolyPhil™ for polynucleotide regeneration. We deliver both with the Vital Injector 2™ — without wheals or bumps.

There's a way to your skin that suits you, we see in the free AURA 3D skin analysis.

Read on

• Polynucleotides or hyaluronic acid: which is better for skin quality?
• What are polynucleotides?
• Does hyaluronic acid cream really work?