Acne & blemished skin: The more you fight it, the more it fights back.

This is because many acne treatments weaken the skin barrier. Acne-prone skin already has a more permeable barrier and loses more water — studies even show that acne treatments can further compromise the barrier. A weakened barrier means more water loss, dehydration and, as a reaction, often more sebum. So you’re fighting the symptom whilst simultaneously feeding the cause. The solution isn’t to use more, but to be more targeted: soothe bacteria and inflammation whilst strengthening the barrier at the same time. Find out more about the science behind this at dehydrated skin →.

Source: Skin Barrier Parameters in Acne Vulgaris versus Normal Controls. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2024.

Thorough, yes; harsh, no. Make-up, sun cream and sebum must be removed in the evening — any residue left in the pores can lead to breakouts. But foaming, harsh cleansers not only remove these impurities but also strip away the lipids in the skin’s barrier. Studies show that aggressive surfactants damage skin proteins and lipids, leading to tightness, dryness and a compromised barrier. The solution is a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser — clean, but not stripped. More cleansing doesn’t make the skin cleaner, but often more sensitive.

Source: Ananthapadmanabhan KP et al., Cleansing without compromise. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17(Suppl 1):16–25.

Yes, this is well documented. Blue light targets the acne-causing bacteria (Cutibacterium acnes) and renders them harmless, whilst red light soothes inflammation. In a controlled study, the combination of blue and red light achieved an improvement of around 76% in inflammatory blemishes after twelve weeks. At our clinic, Dermalux™ LED offers precisely this blue-red combination — and it is included in every facial treatment.

Source: Papageorgiou P et al., Phototherapy with blue and red light in acne vulgaris. British Journal of Dermatology. 2000;142(5):973–978.

This isn’t a coincidence – it’s stress. When under stress, the body releases cortisol, which increases sebum production and the skin’s susceptibility to inflammation, whilst also weakening the skin barrier. In one study, the severity of acne among students increased in direct proportion to exam stress: the higher the stress, the more pronounced the blemishes. So if things get worse just before the event, your skin isn’t working against you — it’s reacting to the stress.

Source: Chiu A, Chon SY, Kimball AB. Archives of Dermatology. 2003;139(7):897–900.

Yes. Oil and water are two different things: oily skin can still be dehydrated; in that case, it lacks water, not sebum. If you neglect hydration and the skin barrier, the skin often produces even more oil to compensate for the loss. The right skincare for acne-prone skin is therefore light but barrier-strengthening — with ceramides and without weighing the skin down. "Oily" does not mean "needs nothing".

Problem skin improves over a course of treatments, not in a single session — usually through several sessions combined with the right skincare routine at home. A single treatment provides relief for one or two weeks; lasting results are only achieved when your routine supports the skin’s barrier. We’ll determine your plan following the AURA 3D skin analysis.

This depends on the treatment and the number of sessions — you can find an overview on our Prices page →. Not ready for an on-site analysis just yet? Our Skin Quiz → gives you a quick overview in five minutes — no appointment or email required.